Day 121: Sao Tome And Principe


Sao Tome and Principe are two small islands about 200 miles west of the coast of Gabon in West Africa. They're part of a tiny archipelago left behind by a volcano several million years ago. Given the distance they sit off the mainland, they're, in effect, an African Galapagos, with hundreds of species unique to the location - in particular, lizards and a multitude of birds. I actually (yes, mock me) went on a joint waterfall/bird-watching expedition today with a number of incredibly excited birdwatchers (mainly Brits and Aussies).

The islands were discovered, in the true sense of the word, by the Portuguese in the 1480s. There is no evidence that anyone ever lived here before that other than a few shipwrecked sailors and the occasional random pirate crew. That also contributes to the purity and biodiversity of the area. The Portuguese immediately figured out that they were onto a good thing and set the island up as a waypoint for the slavery trade out of Africa to the Americas. They sent out "settlers" - consisting of convicts, about 2000 Jewish children (to be converted to Catholicism), and slaves to populate the islands. 

The climate lent itself to farming, and sugar plantations were quickly developed. The world's first sugar plantation, worked by slaves, was created in Sao Tome at the Praia Melao Sugar Mill. The humid conditions impacted the quality of the end product, as there were issues with drying the sugar. Eventually, the Portuguese found other sources of sugar and converted the island to cocoa production, as the slave trade was prohibited after 1836. For a number of years, in the late 1800s and early 1900s, Sao Tome was the world's leading cocoa producer. 

The working and living conditions led to a number of revolts and rebellions by the slaves against the Portuguese (and Spaniards, and even the Dutch for a few years). This was exacerbated by the two world wars and led to the Batepá Massacre in 1953. An exiled committee of ex-pats rightfully stirred up world pressure on the Portuguese, who eventually left in 1974 after a coup. Much like Angola, the country descended into a horrific period of political and civil unrest, compounded by the failed attempts to implement socialist/communist policies. (To quote Maggie Thatcher - it's a great system until you run out of other people's money). Governments came and went, as political leaders refused to accept election results and called them "rigged." No comment. The country has been doing much better over the past 15 years, and although they still pursue "left-wing" policies, the economy has improved with oil and tourism (in Principe) as two major money generators.

OK - The islands. What did I do today - other than watch birds? Well, the birds were not that exciting. The avid ornithologists complained that we only saw the common birds and not the rare birds. I am, apparently, "an absolute wiz" at spotting the tiny yellow canary.

 Oh, look - there is one to your left! 



There were, however, plenty of cool flowers and bugs to keep our attention. As well as the overflight of of some black kites who were obviously waiting for one of us to fall behind. The Nature Center we visited was at 3500 ft, so there was a nice breeze, and our walk through the trees and bushes wasn't as hot as I had expected. We also saw coffee, bananas, and avocado trees/bushes. 

The final 2.5 miles to the Nature Center was over a very rough road that had
some rain runoff damage but was still navigable - although passing the few cars that came the other way was an adventure. However - getting to the Saint Nicolau Waterfall was far more challenging as the road had sustained some heavy damage and, in a few areas, was a bare 2-3 inches wider than the bus. The waterfall itself was quite spectacular - it's about 100 feet high and a straight drop-down. 

Then we bravely returned along the same "road" through the town of Trinidade, passed the 1953 Massacre memorial, and got to see some of the tough living conditions many of the inhabitants face. There is high unemployment, and about 20% of the working population is employed by the government. For example, a contingent of 12 officers visited the ship for customs and immigration clearance. Apparently, we're only the 2nd cruise ship to visit Sao Tome this year, and they'd heard all about the amazing food - so the crew fed them lunch!! Our guide, Marcelo, is 18 years old. He learned English in high school and eagerly read any book he could find, as he figured that was his path to success. He now has one of the better (non-gov) jobs on the island and earns as much as the rest of his large family.

Tomorrow is a sea day, and then we have a trinity of new countries. Benin, Ghana, and the Ivory Coast.

Bonus shots below:

Sunset in Sao Tome Harbour
Presidential Palace
Cathedral
Typical Living Conditions for rural families
Flowers and Flowers (Tropical Milkweed & False Bird Of Paradise)
Another view of the waterfall














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