Day 141: Ponta Delgada - Ambling Through The Azores

 

Today, we visited the Azores, another set of islands in the Atlantic Ocean. They’re a group of nine volcanic islands about 850 miles west of Portugal, set in a 2-5-2 formation. To prove we’re truly heading home, they are about 1200 miles southeast of Newfoundland. We actually have to travel east-south-east to reach Bermuda, our next port of call. Allison went shopping and I took a walking tour of downtown Ponta Delgada - the unofficial capital and largest city.

Considering they’re literally stuck in the middle of nowhere, the islands are impressive. Most have at least 3000 ft peaks and Pico Island maxes out at 7700 feet - the highest point in Portugal. When measured from the sea floor, the mountains in the Azores are some of the largest on Earth. The volcanoes are still active, averaging one event every 30 years. The large major blowup was 1957, so we’re overdue. Fortunately, nothing happened during our visit, although everywhere you look, there are cinder cones and volcanic remnants in the surrounding hills.

Trivia: An eruption in 1811 briefly caused the creation of a tenth island, Sabrina. A passing British warship (named the Sabrina—hah!) claimed sovereignty, setting off a massive row between the Brits and Portuguese. The Portuguese government was in Brazil, hiding from Napoleon, and the Brits were helping out with sea defenses. The island disappeared ten months later, despite initially reaching 60 feet in height, and the long-time allies kissed and made up.

The islands were “discovered” by the Portuguese in 1427, although there is mention of
them in a 1375 atlas, and strong archeological evidence that the Vikings were here between 750 and 900 AD. A few folks insist that the Azores have something to do with the legend of Atlantis, but that claim is made by about every island in the Atlantic! By 1433, settlers left the Algarve mainland (Southwest Portugal) and established several colonies, planting grain, grapevines, and sugar cane, as well as bringing chickens, pigs, and cattle for farming. Unfortunately, in 1522, there was a big earthquake that destroyed the largest settlement town and killed 5,000+ people, and the capital was subsequently relocated to the current-day site of Ponta Delgada. Despite a few random raids from the Brits and Spaniards over the years, the islands remain a proud part of Portugal, just like Madeira.

After 140 days of world traveling, I decided that I had had enough of seeing volcanoes and drinking wine. It's tough to believe, but those are the facts. So, I elected to join a walking tour of downtown with a local guide. Our guide was very knowledgeable and spoke excellent English, but the steep hills and cobblestones defeated over half the group, and 23 participants ended with 10.

The tour, of course, hit the standard set of churches and markets, and I spent an enjoyable half hour in the city square with a cup of coffee and a pasta de nata, listening to a group of local students from the Unversity performing music/dance and flag throwing. I walked up to donate some money, and they surprised me by playing a quick "ta-ra" riff! The town, other than a few major streets, is entirely tile and cobblestones with many extremely small roads - some of which are too narrow to get even a single vehicle through.

The Azores have experienced ups and downs in economy, politics, and immigration over the past century. In their heyday, the islands were the focus of the transatlantic sea and air routes; when ships and planes couldn't carry enough fuel to safely make it across the pond, they frequented the Azores. Despite this influx of people and money, many Azorians emigrated in search of better jobs and lives - many came to Canada and the US.

One final quirk about Ponta Delgada is the Sao Bras Fort, which guards the entrance to
what was the old harbour. Constructed in the 16th century, it never saw much action, and the military never much cared for it. At one point in the early 1900s, they actually tried to demolish it, and the townspeople objected, so the military ceded it to the local council. It still serves as an administrative office, as well as a museum and tourist location today.

Overall, we think it’s a cute old town, but we’d prefer Madeira or The Canary Islands as our choice of North Atlantic islands.

A few extra pictures.

1/ Drinking fountain at the end of the street. Love the blue.

2/ View of hills - you can see the cinder cones all around.

3/ Oldest bar in the Azores - it was open at 9:30am. Playing dominoes.

4/ View down a typical tiled street.

5/ Fountain, a statue of St. Miguel, and Town Hall.

6/ ANother one of the squares