139: Funchal Portugal Revisited - 200ft Cliffs, Cable Cars and Gardens
We’re back! The first stop on our Westward transatlantic crossing is Funchal, on the island of Madeira. Regular readers may remember that we were here on Day 134. This is a small but well-populated island about 300 miles off the coast of Morocco. It was uninhabited until discovered by the Portuguese in 1419 and is now a proud part of that country. You can read all about its history in that post.
Europe, measuring almost 2000 feet in height. Since you asked, the tallest cliffs in the world are on the northern coast of Molokai in the Hawaiian Islands, reaching 4,000 feet. You’ll see the view is quite impressive. Even more impressive was Allison standing on the glass skywalk with nothing else between her and the ocean below. You can look straight down underneath and see the sea hitting the cliffs. We timed our visit perfectly as about 100 folks descended from a large tour group just as we were preparing to leave.
Next up, we saw Câmara de Lobos and Churchill Bay. This is where Winnie and Clem stayed several times in the 1950s and early 60s so he could paint, smoke cigars and drink Madeira Wine. There is a small bar and restaurant/hotel on the water that makes a living from those stays over 60 years ago. They do love Winston Churchill in Madeira.
The final major stop of the morning was tea at Reids. This is the oldest and probably most posh hotel on the island (it even has a 1-star Michelin restaurant). It was conceived and designed by William Reid, a Scottish immigrant. Unfortunately, he died before it was completed, so his two sons took over the task, and its doors opened in 1891. It has hosted multiple UK prime ministers (including Winston), James Bond (aka Roger Moore), and many other notables. Plus of course, the two of us. We had an amazing tea with sandwiches, cakes, pastries, and scones with jam and clotted cream, plus excellent service. It far surpassed the supposed 7-star Burj Al Arab in Dubai in service and was equivalent in food. We liked the sandwiches so much that we forgot to take pics of the food!
Then I walked into Funchal for a stroll along the seafront to the cable car. This gondola takes you up to the top of the hill for another fabulous view of the town and also the Botanical Gardens.
This was a spur of the moment decision, prompted by the fact there was (for once) practically no line. So I bought a ticket.
Allison wisely skipped this as the Gardens are on a hill, and you start at the top. But by the time you’re done, you’re 500 ft lower. And the only incentive to plod back uphill is a free glass of wine. The gardens are quite magnificent, and each section is themed, such as "The Portuguese In Japan." There are also numerous water features, with swans and flamingos for decoration. The flamingos were on full display. The swans just lay on the pathway, angrily squawking at anyone who came near them. I wanted to come downhill on the famous toboggan ride but was beaten to it by a school trip and had no desire to stand behind about 100 kids. Ah well.
We loved Madeira. It, along with The Canary Islands and (hopefully) the Azores tomorrow, may form part of a future island vacation.
To the left, you see the cliffs from the sea. That shot is borrowed from the guidebook.
Bonus pictures are as follows:
1/ View from cliffs looking back towards Funchal
2/ Artsy B&W version
3/ Inside the small church at the top of the cable car.
4/ Wildlife! It's a delicate balancing act.
5/ And again.
6/ One of the water features, about halfway down, This is where
7/ The lazy swans hang out.
8/ Hanging with my Portuguese / Japanese explorer friends.
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