Day 107: Maputo, Mozambique

Today, we saw two very different sides of Mozambique. Allison elected to take the "City and Sun" tour in Maputo, whilst I took the "Walking Tour Of Mafalala." So one of us got the "new and shiny" tourist view, which was quite impressive, and the other received the "real world" view of how everyday folks in Zmaputo live, which was thought-provoking to say the least and definitely makes one feel incredibly grateful for the live we lead. "There but for the grace of God, go I" etc. 

Mozambique's history dates back to the 4th century BC. Migration from the west
and north began, forming numerous small farming and fishing villages on the coast. Life proceeded unchanged for a millennium until the Indian Ocean trade routes started up. Around 800 AD, the Swahilis turned the fishing villages into port towns to participate in the wealth flowing across the ocean. There was relative peace for the next 7 centuries as the trade routes expanded. Then, history repeats itself. The country was "discovered" by the Portuguese in 1498 as part of Vasco de Gamo's first expedition. Over the next few years, the Portuguese settled and expanded their footprint, and by 1505, they had effective control over most of the northern and southern sections of the country.

By the 1530s, small groups of Portuguese traders and prospectors seeking gold penetrated the interior regions. They set up garrisons and trading posts at Sena and Tete on the Zambezi. They tried to gain exclusive control over the gold trade, shutting out other European colonial powers and Arab traders. In the central sections of the company, the Portuguese sold land grants to anyone who could afford them and established an almost feudal system to control the lands. This, unfortunately, kick-started the small local slave system and led to mass slavery and deportation of the locals.

For the next 200 years, Portuguese influence expanded until 1698, when the Arab
traders banded together and dealt the Portuguese a healthy and embarrassing defeat at Fort Jesus on Mombasa Island (now part of Kenya). This forced the Portuguese south, as the Arabs, together with the French and English, asserted more control over the north and central Mozambique.

That brings us to Maputo, where we docked today. It's in the country's far south and has a beautiful shielded natural port. The Portuguese made the town their stronghold, starting in the late 1700s. It gradually expanded from just a simple fort, and the report grew in importance as the Dutch and Brits needed it to serve land-locked Johannesburg - which lies about 100 miles to the east. The Portuguese adopted a hard line with the local population and segregated the city by building a large concrete line through town. Europeans lived on one side, and the blacks (that's how they identify) on the other side. They needed a pass if they entered the "white" section of town. That line still physically exists today in that the southern delineation of Mafalala is the old road separating the two areas.

Below, you'll see some beautiful pictures of the old railroad building (voted one of the top three in the world), the post office, the mega-expensive catholic cathedral, and a few statues. Contrast that with the corrugated iron poverty in Mafalala and the almost total lack of infrastructure. There is power, but it's not always turned on, water is whatever is collected locally, and sewage is buried in pits in the ground (an issue because the low-lying area floods during the rainy season). There is, however, a big honking cellular tower on the outskirts.

Our guide spoke excellent English and told us he had one of the best jobs in Mozambique outside of being in banking or the government. Our small group was always greeted warmly by the inhabitants. We never felt threatened or in danger, and the local children loved the small chocolate squares (the ones the ship leaves on the bed every night) as gifts. Through a government grant, they'd also managed to build an excellent little museum to preserve the area's history.

Overall, we both enjoyed the different aspects of our visit. It was the first time we had ever set foot on the African continental mainland, and Mozambique is undoubtedly a country neither of us had ever expected to visit. We are glad we came and made the visit.

Next up is Durban, first port of call in South Africa. We arrive the evening of the 22nd, and early morning of the 23rd we're flying to Nelspruit to start a 4-day safari. We'll rejoin the boat in Cape Town on the 26th. Stay tuned for pictures and more blogging. The lodge we're staying at looks amazing.