Day 75: Kuala Lumpur - Seven Stops In Six Hours

Kuala Lumpur means "muddy confluence" in Malay, as it’s situated between two rivers. Back in the 1850s, a bunch of Chinese miners went upriver in search of tin. Despite malaria and an 80% death rate, they started mining. Traders arrived to service the miners, and the town was born .. so today it is the 6th most visited city in the world (maybe because petrol/gas is $1.50 a gallon)

But there is more to the history than that simple story from 1857. Those two traders from Lukut, Hiu Siew and Yap Ah Sze,  arrived in Kuala Lumpur to set up shops to sell provisions to the miners. Kuala Lumpur was the furthest point up the Klang River, where supplies could conveniently be brought by boat, so it became a natural collection and dispersal point serving the tin mines. The entire town then formed around these two traders, and more Chinese, Malays, and Indians arrived. Roads were built, temples were built, and more shops were built - the city rapidly expanded. 

In 1874, Sultan Abdul Samad of Selangor accepted a British Resident in a system that allowed the British to rule while the Sultan remained the head. In 1880, Kuala Lumpur was made the capital of Selangor, and the British colonial administration moved to Kuala Lumpur. In 1881, the entire town burnt down - providing the opportunity for a complete (and planned) rebuild under the auspices of Frank Swettenham, who laid out the basis for what KL has now become.

For our travels today, we broke our rule about long bus rides, mainly because the all-day trip offered the chance to visit seven of the KL highlights (and check out a lot of traffic!). First up was The Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Mosque (“The Blue Dome”). It's an impressive set of buildings. The call to prayer started when we were there, which was a positive. However, we weren't exactly made to feel welcome. Oh well. 

Second was The Buddhist Thean Hou Temple. They were far more welcoming, as long as you were prepared to respect their religion (no shoes, take off hats etc.). An acolyte helped me to see what fate had in store for me. There is little free will as your life is laid out for you from the moment you are born ("everything happens for a reason"). My fates were pretty bright.

The third stop was The Sri Kandaawanu Temple in downtown KL. This is a local temple frequented by Sri Lankan immigrants. Again - it was quite open and welcoming, although they were preparing for a wedding, so we couldn't get all the way inside. I was struck by the intricate and colorful micro-artwork all around the rebuilding and in the gardens.

#4: The Kings Palace. We could have skipped this one. A King is elected every five years from the governors of the thirteen provinces. There is some kind of round-robin format, although some "trading" is allowed. Commoners aren't allowed any closer than the front gates, except for one day a year, just after Ramadan. (The picture is from the Sri Lankan temple - a marriage temple)

#5: The National Monument. This cenotaph is dedicated to all the servicemen and women who fought and died in WW1, WW2, and the Malay Insurrection just after WW2. It's an impressive monument. when you inspect it carefully, you see that the fallen are actually the communists from the 1946 conflict (they're wearing different boots!).

#6: Independence Square. This was the former site of much of the British forces, featuring bars and a cricket ground. ( No longer in use, although there is a big concrete slab in the middle that, with some bamboo and foam, could pass at a pinch). You also get some nice views contrasting the old and new on the skyline.

#7: The Petronas Twin Towers. Until 2004, they were the tallest buildings in the world and remain the tallest twin towers in the world. Yes—another James Bond stunt was filmed here. You can take a series of elevators to almost reach the top, but the line was too long. We had to settle for dodging traffic in the street to get the shot.

Two bonus shots from the Buddhist Thean Hou Temple - my favourite stop.