Day 51: Wellington, NZ (The City, Not The Boot)

Wellington is the capital city of New Zealand, located at the extreme southern end of the Northern Island. Even though it is the seat of government, it's only the 3rd largest city, with a metro population of about 450,000 (less than 10% of total pop). It's been the capital since 1865, but that is not enshrined in any legislation. That's just by general agreement. Can you imagine any other country doing that based on a handshake? Trivia answer here: it's also the most southern capital of a sovereign state at 41.3 degrees. Yet, leaving the bay, you can see the Southern Island barely 15 miles away! It's also the world's windiest city, with average wind speeds of 17 mph.

Before European colonization, the area in which the city of Wellington would eventually be founded was seasonally inhabited by indigenous Māori. Wellington and its surroundings have been occupied by various Māori groups since the 12th century.  Kupe was said to have stayed in the harbor from c. 925. A later Māori explorer, Whatonga, named the harbour Te Whanganui-a-Tara after his son Tara. Before the 1820s, most of the inhabitants of the Wellington region were Whatonga's descendants. 

Then - repeating a common South Pacific story, traders landed in 1839, and settlers arrived the following year. It rapidly grew, missionaries appeared, the local tribes were gradually pushed away, and their lands were taken via some dubious treaties. 

Today, Allison and I jumped on the local shuttle and traveled into town. We wandered down Lambton Quay (named after John Lambton, the first director of the NZ Company) and then jumped on the famous cable car, which took us to the top of one of the hills overlooking the city. The Wellington Cable Car started operating in February 1902 and has been running ever since. It was an instant success, with over 425,000 passengers in the first year, and last year handled 1.2 million. We then checked out Space Place, a planetarium, and learned how to navigate with the stars and find due south. Which is way harder than being in the Northern Hemisphere with Polaris/North Star as your guide. But we're now experts. Ask us!

Time for lunch at the Cable Car Cafe with surprisingly good food and some feathered friends. Then, back down the cable car for some shopping. I visited the vibrant dockside, which offers everything from old sailing boats to helicopter rides (alas, there was not enough time, although I was tempted).

Our overall view of NZ is that it's a beautiful place with delightful and friendly people. Definitely a keeper, and we are already plotting our return. After all, there is an entire island we haven't yet set foot on. 

Pictures below feature.

1/ The inter-island ferries. Carrying people and cars. (And probably sheep)

2/ The Beehive. Seat of the NZ Parliament. Behind where this photo was taken is the old government building, which was the largest wooden structure of its time.

3/ Woman of Words. Status installed back in 2013. If you zoom in, you can see the word inscribed on her clothing. It's pretty cool. More here. 

4/ Allison with her revolting lemon, lime, and bitter drink. Bitter is right. 

5/ It was a dull and cloudy day coming into the bay, but brightened up about 11am.