Day 41: Pago Pago American Samoa (Feb 15th)

 

Today, we visited another small island, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Along with its cousin, Samoa, the island is a good 2.5-day sail from Tahiti and 1.5 days to Fiji. American Samoa is an incorporated territory of the United States (hence the name) and is, trivia question here, the southernmost territory of the US. The population is about 45,000 folks, and the area is similar to that of Washinton, DC. 

American Samoa is one of the oldest population centers in the Pacific, dating back well over 3,000 years. The historical evidence shows a lot of intermingling between Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa throughout that time, and it wasn't "discovered" in Western eyes until 1722. A Dutch explorer named Jacob Roggeveen sighted them and named them the Baumann Islands. Then came the French about 45 years later, who renamed them The Navigator Isles. James Cook recorded the island's name in 1773 but never set foot on land. 16 years later, because of an unfortunate incident between the French explorer Laperouse and the natives - it was renamed (again!) Massacre Island. (There is still a small bay named Massacre Bay near Aasu). 

Random explorers passed by until 1830, when the London Missionary Society arrived from Tahiti under the leadership of John Williams and started converting the natives to Christianity. This is always the well-meaning beginning of the tragic end for native cultures in the South Pacific. Conversion proceeded for 50 years. Then, the Germans, Yanks, and Brits got involved and fomented civil war and unrest. Eventually, a treaty was signed, and the US ended up with American Samoa, the Germans with Samoa, and the Brits got concessions in Western Africa and Tonga. 

History lesson over. What did we do? Well, we took a bus to the eastern side of the island for one of those "cultural overview" tours. Going through Pago Pago and the surrounding areas shows quite a bit of poverty on the island. Two things become quickly apparent. 

First, the Samoans (encompassing all the islands) are great athletes. Amazing rugby players and high school American Football players are 60 times more likely to play in the NFL than any of their counterparts from the US.

Secondly, millions of dollars are spent on houses of worship (Catholic, Protestant, Mormon, 7th Day, etc..) that could be spent on essential services like pre-K and pre-natal programs, clinics, and many support services. Very little gets plowed back into the community. To each their own, and it is the Samoan way.

One of our first stops was the rocks of Futu and Fati, known as the Flowerpot Rocks. Legend has it that a couple, Fatu and Futi, had sailed from Savai'i looking for Tutuila Island. When their canoe sank, the couple were transformed into tree-topped islets.

Then, onto a cultural display featuring some live cooking and food tasting. We learned how the native population uses the coconut for virtually everything. The umu oven is an above-ground oven with large volcanic rocks in the middle, covered by coconut husks, kindling, breadplant leaves, and almost anything else they can get their hands on. After lighting, allow about 45 minutes for the rocks to get hot, and then clear the debris and place the food to be cooked on the rocks. Delicious. Sidenote >> The men do all the cooking. While this is happening, you drink coconut milk and chop fruit. 

Once the feast was over, the Village Princess traditionally came out to say farewell to her guests and dance. She needed two volunteers from the audience. Soooo .. you see the results. I got to wear a traditional skirt - the lava-lava and danced with my new best friend, Jerry, in front of 150 strangers. I feel I did a pretty damn good job, and I get to keep the lava lava!

Overall a fun day, with great food such as tuna with coconut milk and baked chicken. Tomorrow we venture a whole 86 miles west to Apia in "regular" Samoa. We have a beach day scheduled, waterfalls, and yet another cooking and food sampling session!

A few more pictures below of John dancing, Princess Ginger, and another more professional local dancer.