Day 31: Crossing The Equator

Traditionally, when a ship crosses the equator, King Neptune exercises his authority to come on board and summon all sailors who have never crossed before to come in front of him and be judged. The first recorded descriptions are from around 400 years ago, and their origins remain hazy. There are some suggestions that it formed an important test to ensure the men you were sailing with, and thus dependent upon, were able seafarers. A different interpretation is much more steeped in superstition – appeasing Neptune, the god of the sea, before ‘crossing the line.’

On many ships, but NOT cruise ships, there is generally full immersion in seawater, either in the sea or a container on the ship – hence the term ‘sea baptism’. A variety of names for the novice sea-goer exist, including tadpoles, griffins, and pollywogs.  A wide variety of characters can also be included in the festivities: 19th and 20th-century versions often include a barber, with initiates having their facial and head hair unevenly shaven. More recently, an oversized cardboard prop cut-throat razor is sometimes used. Male seafarers dressed in women’s clothes are also a common feature, with Neptune’s consort Salacia, goddess of the sea, traditionally being represented.

On navy ships, it was an opportunity for the crew to subject the novice officers (but never the captain) to some fun and ridicule. In his diary, naturalist Charles Darwin recounts being teased about the potential ordeal upon joining the now-famous voyage on the Beagle. On 29 October 1831 he wrote, ‘They amused themselves with giving most terrific accounts of what Neptune would do with me on crossing the Equator'. 

On board the SS Mariner, they did ... nothing. Very disappointing. Not even an announcement from the captain. So many of the passengers used their GPS to track the exact moment we crossed, and a huge cheer went up! Alas - I was expecting a big red line, mermaids cheering, and dolphins leading the applause. I guess we missed that too.

Anyway - another small first for our world travels. Onwards to Nuku Hiva!!